Rainy Weather Risk!!!

Anthracnose is a group of diseases that cause dark, sunken lesions on leaves, stems, flowers, and fruits. Often called leaf, shoot, or twig blight, tree anthracnose results from infection by a number of fungi. It can noticeably blight some trees such as sycamore, ash, oak, and evergreen elms. Because, anthracnose fungi need water to spread and infect, Infections on deciduous plants are more severe when prolonged spring rains occur after new growth appears.

Leaves may curl, shrivel or have spots ranging from tan to black. The infected leaves will often drop at times the entire plant may shed its leaves. When the weather dries, new leaf growth will likely appear. Rake fallen infected leaves up quickly and discard.

Fungicidal sprays can be used to manage anthracnose once it is present and in the future be sprayed to prevent anthracnose during especially wet springs. A natural method would be to use Liquid Copper Soap from Natural Guard. For continued disease resistance a systemic fungicide or broad spectrum fungicide would be a good option.

Hydrangeas: Pink or Blue

For hydrangea blooms to be pink:
Add dolomitic lime several times a year to raise the pH use a fertilizer with high levels of phosphorus. Phosphorus helps to prevent aluminum from creeping into the system of the hydrangea. Choose a fertilizer close to the ratio of 25/10/10 (Phosphorus is the middle number).In areas that naturally produce blue hydrangeas (soils with aluminum), consider growing pink hydrangeas in large pots. If hydrangeas are grown in pots, it will be much easier to control the requirements for growing pink hydrangeas.

For hydrangea blooms to be blue:
To ensure that aluminum ispresent, aluminum sulfate may be added to the soil around the hydrangeas. Mix 1 Tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per gallon of water to be applied to plants. Important: Water plants well in advance of application and put solution on cautiously. A fertilizer low in phosphorus and high in potassium is helpful in producing a good blue color(25/5/30 is good.)

Re-blooming Amaryllis Bulbs

Growing Amaryllis!

These bulbs are prized for their willingness to produce large and colorful blooms indoors in the fall (South African Amaryllis) or in the dead of winter (Dutch Amaryllis).

POTTING THE BULBS: Pot bulbs individually in 6-7in pots or group 3 bulbs together in a 10-12in container. Begin by placing a well-drained potting mix in a plastic tub. Slowly add warm water and stir with your hand until the mix is moist but not soggy. Then fill the pot about half full with potting mix, set the bulb on top of the mix and fill in around the bulb with additional mix. Adjust the position of the bulb as needed, so that the top third of the bulb is exposed. The final level of the mix should be about 1/2in below the rim of the pot to allow for watering. Firm the mix and water lightly to settle it around the bulbs.

PRE-BLOOM CARE OF AMARYLLIS: Place the pot where the temperature remains above 60°F. The warmer the temperature (70-80°F night and day is ideal), the faster the bulb will sprout and grow. Providing bottom heat (by setting the pot on a propagation mat or on the top of a refrigerator) may help stimulate growth. Water only when the top inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch. Watering more frequently, particularly just after potting, can cause the bulb to rot.

Growth generally begins in 2-8 weeks. Certain varieties of Amaryllis may take more time to sprout. As long as your bulb remains firm, be patient and take care not to overwater. Provide ample sunshine (a south-facing window or a sunroom) as soon as the bulb sprouts. Rotate the pot frequently to prevent the flower stalks from leaning toward the light.

REBUILDING THE BULB: After flowering, your bulb is exhausted. If you want flowers next year (many people prefer simply to purchase new bulbs every fall), you must allow it to rebuild itself. After the last bloom fades, cut off the flower stalk 3-5 inches above the bulb, BUT DO NOT CUT THE LEAVES OFF. THEY PRODUCE FOOD THAT WILL BE STORED IN THE BULB. Put your plant in a sunny window (a south-facing one is best), water when the top inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch, and begin fertilizing with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer once a month. When the danger of frost has passed in spring, set the pot outdoors in full sun or knock the bulb out of its pot and plant it in the ground in a sunny location. In fall -- we often wait until frost blackens the leaves -- bring the bulb indoors, cut the foliage off just above the bulb, and store it dry in a cool (55°F), dark place such as a basement for 8-10 weeks. Then pot (or repot) the bulb and water it. Thereafter, keep the potting mix almost dry until new growth emerges, and follow the instructions for potting bulbs.

Plants of the Week

NINEBARK DIABLO:

These multi-branched, upright shrubs are fast growers. In spring, Diablo ninebark bears white or pinkish-white flowers that grow in clusters. The purplish foliage of Diablo ninebark plants (with a touch of red here and there) earn them the nickname, "purple ninebarks" or purple-leafed ninebarks." An increase in red color and a hint of bronze added to the purple in the leaves make them even more attractive in fall. Mature branches exhibit exfoliating bark, giving Diablo ninebark plants winter interest.

Besides it's aesthetic value in the landscape, Diablo is also loved for it's versatility. While it will flower best in full sun, it also thrives in partial shade.  Additionally this extremely hard plant, Diablo prefers a well drained soil, but can also be used as a wetland species -- while conversely...tolerating some drought!!

Ninebark Diablo grows 8-10' tall with a similar spread.  It makes an excellent specimen plant or privacy hedge.  Many prefer a natural 'overgrown' look, but Diablo can be pruned after blooming to make it more compact or shaped.

TWICE AS NICE DAYLILIES:

Traditionally in the midwest, perennials add background and greenery to the garden and the most powerful color punch comes from annuals.  Re-blooming daylilies offer summer-long bright and colorful blooms from a perennial plant.

The award-winning Plants that Work® "Twice as Nice" Daylily Collection represents some of the best hybridization and breeding the Daylily world has to offer. As America's most loved perennial, these selections offer a broad range of color, form and bloom time, with heights suitable for most any garden. And in most zones and under normal conditions, attentive gardening practices result in repeat blooms! "Twice as Nice" Daylily Collection continues to be a favorite choice of the home gardener including favorites like "Going Bananas", "Bright Sunser", and "Siloam Double Classic"

Thrillers, Fillers, and Spillers

Nothing says "welcome" or "relax" - it's summertime like a pot full of beaming flowers.  In our climate, perennials give color burst for moments each season. 

Containers are essential for color and style in the garden.  You can design your own amazing looking containers:

- Be creative in your plant choices (think outside the 4 pack)

- Select plants that will thrive in the container and location

- Use a top quality potting mix...you keep hearing this,

  but it's MOST important

- Use a design scheme of thrillers, fillers and spillers...

     Thrillers: Plants that bring punch to the containers

        Common choices: green spike, coleus, evergreen shrub

        Unique choices: cordyline, grasses, fuschia plant, or

         tropical plants like this croton.

     Fillers: Plants that bring fullness to the containers

        Common choices: pansies, begonias, verbena, geraniums,

        impatiens, petunias

        Unique choices: coralbells, hostas, herbs, strawberry 

        plants, and even lettuce!

  Spillers: Plants that, well, spill out of your container

        Common choices: vinca vine, asparagus fern, licorice, & ivy

        Unique choices: ferns, sweet potato vine, ivy geranium